Definition: Aioli

This week's culinary definition is aioli.

Aioli is a Provençal traditional sauce made of garlic, olive oil, lemon juice, and egg yolks. There are many variations, such as the addition of mustard. It is usually served at room temperature. The name comes from Provençal alh 'garlic' + òli 'oil.'

Aioli is like mayonnaise, an emulsion or a suspension of small globules of oil and oil-soluble compounds in water and water-soluble compounds. Egg yolk can be used as an emulsifier and is generally used in making aioli. However, mustard and garlic both have emulsion-producing properties and some variants omit the egg.

Generally, egg yolks, garlic and Dijon mustard (if adding this as a common variation on the basic aioli) are combined first with a whisk, then the oil and the lemon juice are added slowly with whisking to create the emulsion. The additions of the dissimilar ingredients must be slow to start and then can be faster once the initial emulsion has formed.

Source:  Wikipedia.com

Recipe: Parmesan Bread Pudding with Broccoli Rabe and Pancetta

My hubby was reading this month's Bon Appetit magazine this past weekend and came to show me the recipe and photo of the Parmesan Bread Pudding with Broccoli Rabe and Pancetta recipe (April 2012, p. 38) saying, "This looks good -- we should make it." 

So we did, and it was good!  We had leftovers this evening, and it was good even reheated.

It's quite simple to make and doesn't take many ingredients (olive oil, garlic, red pepper, broccoli rabe, salt, pepper, eggs, milk, bread, parmesan, pancetta).  We had never cooked broccoli rabe before and weren't even sure our local (regular) grocery store carried it, but they did!

Our only deviation from the recipe. . . we used about twice the amount of pancetta.  Gotta love pancetta.

Next time, it might be interesting to cut down the amount of broccoli rabe and replace it with some broccoli and spinach.  The broccoli rabe added a bitterness that we liked but was a tad strong.

Definition: Chimichurri

This week's culinary definition is chimichurri.

What exactly is it?
It's a sauce used for grilled meat and is originally from Argentina but is also used in Uruguay.

Chimichurri is made from finely chopped parsley, minced garlic, olive oil, oregano, and white or red wine vinegar. Additional flavorings such as coriander, paprika, cumin, thyme, lemon, and bay leaf may be included. In its red version, tomato and red bell pepper may also be added. It can also be used as a marinade for grilled meat.

Where did the name come from?
I think these 2 explanations are the most realistic and believable:

The Argentine gourmet Miguel Brascó claims that the word chimichurri originated when the British were captured after the British invasions of the Río de la Plata. The prisoners asked for condiment for their food mixing English, aboriginal and Spanish words. According to this story, che-mi-curry stands for "che mi salsa" (a rough translation is hey give me condiment) or "give me curry". The word then corrupted to chimichurri.

Another theory for the name of the sauce comes from the Basque settlers that arrived in Argentina as early as the 19th century. According to this theory, the name of the sauce comes from the Basque term tximitxurri, loosely translated as "a mixture of several things in no particular order."

Source:  wikipedia.com

Recipe: Spinach-and-Parmesan Sformati

I've been wanting to make Top Chef Masters' Lachlan Mackinnon Patterson's Spinach-and-Parmesan Sformati ever since I saw the photo of it in Food and Wine Magazine's April 2012 issue (p.132).  A sformati (or sformato) is an Italian custard with a lot of cheese -- it's like a souffle but not as airy.

Mine did NOT turn out looking as light green as the one in the magazine photo (see the link to the photo and recipe above).  Perhaps next time I need to use Parmesan powder to coat my ramekins.  Otherwise, there is no way for a dish that has that much spinach in it to be that light in color. 

In any case, the dish (which we ate as a side dish) was delicious.  It tasted like a souffle and was packed with spinach and cheese flavor.  While it does take a while to make and bake, it isn't a hard recipe and is worth the time.

Recipe: Chicken Dijon

I made the Chicken Dijon recipe (Food and Wine Magazine, Oct 2011, p.118) this past weekend.  Very easy, and it turned out great -- nice and flavorful.  The ingredient list is pretty simple:

• coriander seeds
• EVOO
• chicken
• s&p
• onion
• garlic
• chicken broth
• whole-grain mustard
• either creme fraiche or sour cream
• tarragon

It's so much better than the Shake 'n Bake Honey Mustard mix I used to use when I didn't know how to cook.

Next time, I'm going to try chicken breasts instead of the drumsticks.

Recipe: Pork Larb Lettuce Wrap

We made this Pork Larb Lettuce Wrap recipe this evening.  The dish (I'd recommend this as an appetizer) has really nice flavors but a major flaw.  The recipe calls for toasting a tablespoon of long-grain rice until browned, grinding the rice in a spice grinder and then sprinkling the meat with the powder.  Definitely don't do this!!!  It gave the dish a weird grainy texture that was not appetizing.  Or, if you want to try this, do it with just a small portion of meat to see if you like it. 

Other than that, the flavors were good -- think garlic, fish sauce, lime, sugar, spice (we used a serrano pepper), red onion, cilantro, mint, basil -- very southeast Asian.

We used ground chicken because the store ran out of pork (and I didn't want to use ground beef); however, I think the pork's flavor and texture would be ideal to use the next time we make it.

Definition: Duxelles

What is duxelle or duxelles (pronounced duck-SELL)?  

Duxelles is a finely chopped (minced) mixture of mushrooms or mushroom stems, onions, shallots and herbs sautéed in butter, and reduced to a paste (sometimes cream is used, as well). It is a basic preparation used in stuffings and sauces (notably, beef Wellington) or as a garnish. Duxelles can also be filled into a pocket of raw pastry and baked as a savory tart.

Duxelles is said to have been created by the 17th-century French chef François Pierre La Varenne (1615–1678) and to have been named after his employer, Nicolas Chalon du Blé, marquis d'Uxelles, maréchal de France.

Try Gordon Ramsay's Beef Wellington recipe which calls for making a duxelles (or mushroom paste).

Source: Wikipedia.com

Modern Art Desserts

If you love modern art and love desserts, watch this 2 minute video.  The team at the Blue Bottle Cafe at the SFMOMA create desserts that are inspired by artists such as Cindy Sherman, Piet Mondrian and Richard Serra.  As the author Caitlin Freeman says, "we go to work every day to look at art and make cake."  What a dream job! 

I must have this new cookbook that is coming out on April 16th.

Recipe: Chicken and Dumplings

It was chilly this past weekend, and we were looking for a hearty, healthy dish to make.  America's Test Kitchen's Chicken and Dumplings Recipe was perfect after a long day of working out in the yard!  We've made this recipe before, and it turns out great each time.  We added more vegetables than it called for and so need to remember to add more chicken stock and water next time we make the recipe. 

Definition: Banger sausage

On Saturday, I went to Bowl & Barrel with some friends and ordered the Scotch Egg that was on their menu. 

Scotch Egg description:
our banger sausage around a farm egg, fried crispy on a bed of salad greens

The server said it was good and that they take a lot of time to make it right; I was curious about it since I'd seen a contestant on MasterChef make the dish. It was delish (though, a little salty) and didn't need the sweet BBQ-like sauce that came on the side.

I'd heard of bangers before but wondered. . .  what exactly is banger sausage?  Is it a specific type of sausage?

According to Wikipedia:
Although it is sometimes stated that the term "bangers" has its origins in World War II, the term was
actually in use at least as far back as 1919.  The term "bangers" is attributed to the fact that sausages, particularly the kind made during World War II under rationing, were made with water so they were more likely to explode under high heat if not cooked carefully; modern sausages do not have this attribute.

Recipe: Apple Pie Bars

Food & Wine Magazine's March 2013 issue is full of "all-time greatest recipes from legendary cooks."  This past weekend, I made the Apple Pie Bars recipe that's on p.78 -- named Best Apple Dessert. The photo in the magazine looks amazing.  The dessert is not so amazing.

Here are the issues with the recipe:

• There isn't enough apple filling.  I would've liked double the amount called for in the recipe.
• The apples do not take 20 minutes to cook/soften. 
• There's way too much topping.  I would've cut it by a third.
• There wasn't enough sugar in the topping.
• The dessert does not need to be baked for an hour.  Had I baked it the full hour, it would have completely burned!
• The crust needs to be par-baked, not fully baked -- it got a little too crispy and overbaked.
• In step 4, it doesn't say what to set the oven to.  I assumed 375 degrees as is mentioned in step 1 for the crust.  Perhaps that was the issue with the baking time?

For a super-time consuming recipe, this one isn't worth the time or the calories.  I love anything with apples, cinnamon, and oats, and this was a huge diasppointment.

Definition: Nicoise Salad

It's Monday definition day!

The first time I ordered a Nicoise salad, I was in college.  I don't remember how I pronounced it, and even today, I often stop myself before pronouncing it -- second-guessing myself.  The correct pronunciation is 'ni-swaz' (it's French).

The salad includes tomatoes, green beans, tuna and anchovies and is often accompanied with hard-boiled eggs and olives.  Traditionally, it included raw red peppers, shallots and artichoke hearts, new potatoes or other cooked vegetables.

Here is a recipe offered by Chef Alice Waters of Chez Panisse.

Restaurant: Bones in Denver

Pork Belly Steamed Buns

 

 

Udon:

Slow Cooked Pork Shoulder, Plum-Soy Broth,
Poached Egg, Scallion

 Yakisoba:

Crispy Chicken Thigh, Chinese Long Bean,

Jalapeño, Spicy Lemongrass Broth, Cilantro

Added a Poached Egg

One of my favorite restaurants in Denver is Bones.  The name doesn't sound appealing, but this 40ish seat restaurant is a gem in downtown Denver.  (I think the area it's in is actually Uptown.)  The restaurant is an Asian fusion noodle house, and the 3 times I've dined there, I've sat at the Chef's counter and watched the action unfold as orders are placed and the three cooks effortlessly coordinate and plate and garnish the orders.  The restaurant is small, very small and yet is interestingly quiet with the open kitchen being right there.

 

I'm craving the Pork Buns and the noodle bowls right now.  I've had their Ramen (Poached Lobster, Edamame, Beurre Blanc, Miso Lobster Broth, Scallion), but decided to try something new this time.  The Yakisoba and Udon didn't disappoint and were delicious.

 

The Asian-inspired drinks are really interesting (see below for some of the drinks from their menu).  Lost in Translation was one of the smoothest Manhattan-type drinks I've tasted, and I want to go back to try some of the others.  Alas, the next time I'm in Denver. . . .

---------------------------------

Lost in Translation Unique, (like the movie), stylized Manhattan: Suntory’s Yamazaki 12yr Whisky, Sweet Vermouth, House Orange bitters & a Colorado cherry.

Tsunami Simple, Surprising, Refreshing: Tozai Typhoon Sake, ginger beer & Leopold Blackberry Liqueur. Tall, Rocks.
 

Green Tea Classic Press House Infused Green Tea SKYY Vodka, Canton Ginger, splash of soda & ginger beer. Rocks.

Almond Blossom White Tea Infused Flor de Cana Rum, Leopold American Orange Liqueur, Orgeat, Lime, Rocks. 
 
Lychee Sidecar Espolon Tequila Blanco, Lychee Sour, Up. 

 

 

 

Restaurant: Sweet Basil in Vail

French Toast Dessert

For dinner in Vail, definitely go to Sweet Basil and be sure to make a reservation as soon as you know you're headed to the ski town.  You won't be disappointed by the atmosphere, apres ski drinks, wine list, service, and of course, food.  (Oh, and the people watching at the bar.)  

Check out their accolades.

We had some of the best appetizers ever.  For instance . . .

Saffron Gnocchi “Paella” Laughing Bird Shrimp, Razor Clams, Baby Octopus, Iberico Chorizo, Chorizo Spice, Grilled Fennel

Roasted Beet Salad Riesling Poached Apple, Citrus Blue Cheese Espuma, Arugula, Pistachio Vinaigrette

For my entree, I had by far the best pork chop I've ever had in my life.  It was served with a ricotta cornbread pudding, mustard greens and King Trumpet mushrooms.

And make sure to save room for dessert.  My French toast with carmelized bananas, cocoa puffs and cereal milk ice cream was good, but not as good as the sumptuous Sticky Toffee Pudding which is their signature dessert.

After a day of skiing, dinner here makes for a perfect day.

Architectural Digest's 10 Most Beautifully Designed New Restaurants

Wow, wow, wow.  Check out the slideshow of the 10 Most Beautifully Designed New Restaurants in the world from Architectural Digest.  They include:

Astor Grill, Doha, Qatar
Ma Cocotte, Paris, France
The Nomad, New York, New York
5-Cinco, Berlin, Germany
La Maison 1888, Da Nang, Vietnam
Trollveggen, Romsdal, Norway
Atera, New York, New York
Brasserie Zédel, London, England
Volkshaus Basel, Basel, Switzerland
French Blue, St. Helena, California

Definition: Clafoutis

Photo from wikipedia.com

Clafoutis is a dessert from the Limousin region of France, consisting of black cherries arranged in a buttered dish and covered with fairly thick pancake batter.  It is served lukewarm, dusted with sugar. Aas a rule, the cherries are not pitted but simply washed and stalked/stemmed since the kernals add their flavor to the batter during cooking.

The Academie francais, who had defined clafoutis as a "sort of fruit flan," was faced with protests from the Limoges and changed their definition to "cake with black cherries."  Nevertheless, there are numerous variations using red cherries or other fruits.  The word comes from the provincial dialect word clafir (to fill).

Source:  Larousse Gastronomique

Here is Julia Child's recipe on epicurious.com  (her recipe calls for pitted cherries)

Bistro 31's Cocktails

If you're in Dallas, check out the upstairs bar at Bistro 31 in Highland Park Village.  The cocktail list is extensive -- it's always hard to choose what to try! (Note: The menus haven't been updated on their website.)

The ones pictured above are:

Hadleigh's Punch
10 can rum, fresh blueberries, lychee syrup, lemon juice, garnished with basil

Chocolate Bullet
bulleit bourbon, licor 43, aztec chocolate bitters, garnished with fresh orange slice

Definition: Mace

I had to use mace in a recipe recently.  What is it?

Mace
This golden-brown spice has a sweet, warm flavor that is similar to—but stronger than—nutmeg. That is because the two are closely related: Nutmeg is the seed of the sour, apricot-like fruit of the tropical nutmeg tree; mace is the lacy membrane that surrounds the nutmeg seed. Mace is used in both sweet and savory foods. Mace, the spice, is not related to the self-defense aerosol spray, which is named after a club-like weapon.

Source:  BonAppetit.com

Definition: Schnapps vs. Liqueur

I noticed that we have both peach schnapps and peach liqueur in our home bar, and they taste pretty different.  What's the difference between schnapps and liqueur?  I was still a little confused by the Wikipedia definitions below so found this answer on a couple of websites.

Schnapps are fermented and distilled; liqueurs are simply fruits steeped in an alcohol which has already been fermented and distilled.

From Wikipedia:

Schnapps
In general, it refers to any kind of strong alcoholic beverage.

American schnapps are alcoholic beverages that are produced by mixing neutral grain spirit with fruit flavors or with other flavors. This mixture is then bottled with added sugar and (usually) glycerine, producing a smooth, syrup-like drink. Their alcohol content can be between 15% and 50% ABV (30–100 proof).  These drinks technically fall into the category of liqueurs because of their added sugar content.

Liqueur
It's an alcoholic beverage made from distilled alcohol that has been flavored with fruit, cream, herbs, spices, flowers or nuts and bottled with added sugar. Liqueurs are typically quite sweet; they are usually not aged for long but may have resting periods during their production to allow flavors to marry.

In the United States and Canada, where spirits are often called "liquor", there is often confusion over liqueurs and liquors, especially as many spirits today are available in flavored form (e.g. flavored vodka). The most reliable rule of thumb is that liqueurs are quite sweet and often syrupy in consistency, while liquors are not.  In parts of the United States, liqueurs may also be called cordials or schnapps.

Definition: Mirepoix

Mirepoix

Pronounced meer-PWAH. 

A culinary preparation created in the 18th century by the cook of the Duc de Levis-Mirepoix, a French field marshal and ambassador of Louis XV.  It consists of a mixture of diced vegetables (carrot, onion, celery);  raw ham or lean bacon is added when the preparation is au gras (with meat).

A mirepoix is used to enhance the flavors of meat, game and fish, in the preparation of sauces, and as a garnish for dishes.

When a mirepoix is used in braised or pot-roasted dishes, it should be simmered gently in a covered pan until all the vegetables are very tender and can impart their flavor to the dish.

Source:  Larousse Gastronomique