Ask Martha: Difference Between 3 Hard Italian Cheeses

I'm saving this as a reminder of the difference between Parmigiano-Reggiano, Grana Padano and Pecorino Romano! (Source: Martha Stewart Living Magazine, September 2021, p.48)

Wild Salmon

In this month's issue of Bon Appetit Magazine (June 2014), there's a nice section on wild salmon and the five types of Pacific salmon, specifically.  I tried to find the info on BonAppetit.com to link it here, but it's not online.

I'm including the info here, as reference (credit to Joanna Sciarrino who has the byline):

• Chinook:  Also known as king, its nicely fatty flesh is ideal for slow-roasting.
• Coho:  More subtle in flavor and texture than other types, it's a smaller fish, making it great for roasting or grilling whole.
• Sockeye:  Sometimes called red salmon, it has vibrant red-orange flesh and a profound flavor that stands up well to assertive seasonings.
• Pink:  It has a lower fat content and is mostly available canned.  If you find fillets, grill them.
• Chum:  Sometimes labeled dog or keta salmon, it's prized for its roe.  The comparatively low oil content of its delicately flavored flesh means it's better for smoking or for quick-cooking methods that won't dry it out, like pan-searing and grilling.

Here's more info about salmon at  BonAppetit.com

Definition: Yams vs. Sweet Potatoes

What's the difference between a yam and a sweet potato?

Apparently, they're not even related according to this Huffington Post article!
And apparently, the U.S. government has perpetuated this confusion.  Here is a summary of the differences:

Sweet Potatoes

• Come in 2 varieties here in the U.S.  One has a golden skin with creamy white flesh and crumbly texture; the other has a copper skin with orange flesh that is sweet and soft.
• All are basically the same shape and size with tapered ends; they're generally much smaller than yams.
• The USDA labels the orange-fleshed ones as "yams" to distinguish them from the white fleshed variety even though they're not really yams!

Yams

• There are many varieties, but most have black bark-like skin and white, purple or reddish flesh.
• BTW, did you know that the word yam comes from an African word meaning "to eat?"

After reading the article, I've realized that I may have never had a yam . . .

Definition: Stuffing vs. Dressing

Turkey on your mind?  With Thanksgiving just around the corner, will you be making stuffing or dressing?

There is a difference!

Stuffing is cooked inside the bird.
Dressing is cooked separately.

Steak Cuts - Hanger, Skirt and Flank

I was flipping through back issues of Bon Appetit Magazine pulling out recipes and had flagged p. 24 of their June 2013 issue.  I think they did a good job explaining the following 3 cuts of meat:

• HANGER STEAK:  Off-the-charts flavor.  Just add a marinade and a charcoal grill.
• SKIRT STEAK:  Traditionally used for fajitas; also great as a main-course steak.  Serve with a bracing, herbaceous sauce like chimichurri.
• FLANK STEAK:  Very lean, so the high heat of the grill is ideal for a hot, smoky sear.

Definition: Jam, Jelly, Marmalade

Jams, jellies and marmalades are all different styles of fruit preserves.

Jam = a preparation of fruits, vegetables and sugar, often canned or sealed for long-term storage. The preparation of fruit preserves today often involves adding commercial or natural pectin as a gelling agent, although sugar or honey may be used as well.

Jelly = an American term for clear or translucent fruit spread made from sweetened fruit (or vegetable) juice and set using naturally occurring pectin.  Additional pectin may be added where the original fruit does not supply enough, for example with grapes. Jelly can be made from sweet, savory or hot ingredients. It is made by a process similar to that used for making jam, with the additional step of filtering out the fruit pulp after the initial heating. 

Marmalade = a type of fruit preserve made from the juice and peel of citrus fruits boiled with sugar and water. It can be produced from lemons, limes, grapefruits, mandarins, sweet oranges, bergamots and other citrus fruits, or any combination.

Source:  Wikipedia.com

Definitions: Puree, Paste, Coulis, Compote, Chutney

Purée = a general term for cooked food, usually vegetables or legumes, that have been ground, pressed, blended, and/or sieved to the consistency of a soft creamy paste or thick liquid.

Paste = often used for purees intended to be used as an ingredient, rather than eaten.

Coulis =  most commonly used term for fruit purees.  A form of thick sauce made from puréed and strained vegetables or fruits. A vegetable coulis is commonly used on meat and vegetable dishes, and it can also be used as a base for soups or other sauces. Fruit coulis are most often used on desserts.

Compote = a dessert originating from 17th century France made of whole or pieces of fruit in sugar syrup. Whole fruits are cooked in water with sugar and spices. The syrup may be seasoned with vanilla, lemon or orange peel, cinnamon sticks or powder, cloves, ground almonds, grated coconut, candied fruit, or raisins. The compote is served either warm or cold.

Chutney = a  pungent relish of Indian origin made of fruit, spices and herbs.

Source:  Wikipedia.com

Definition: Kosher Salt

So, what is kosher salt exactly. . . I mean, why is it called KOSHER salt?

From Wikipedia.com:

Koshering salt, usually referred to as kosher salt in the US, is a variety of edible salt with a much larger grain size than some common table salt. Like common table salt, kosher salt consists of the chemical compound sodium chloride.

Unlike some common table salt, kosher salt typically contains no additives such as iodine, although some brands will include anti-clumping agents in small amounts. Additive-free nonkosher salt is also readily available.

The term "kosher salt" comes from its use in making meats kosher by removing surface blood, not from its being made in accordance with the guidelines for kosher foods as written in the Torah, as nearly all salt is kosher, including ordinary table salt. One salt manufacturer considers the term ambiguous, and distinguishes between "kosher certified salt" and "koshering salt": "koshering salt" has the "small, flake-like form" useful in treating meat, whereas "kosher certified salt" is salt that has been certified as such by an appropriate religious body.

Also, as you probably know from experience -- it dissolves easily and provides flavor without oversalting.

Definition: Osteria

I've seen so many restaurants named Osteria-something like Osteria Via Stato, Osteria Stellina, Osteria Coppa, and so on.

What does osteria mean? 

[I think the info below applies primarily to the osteria in Italy, not in the U.S., based on my experience.]

An osteria in Italy was originally a place serving wine and simple food. Lately, the emphasis has shifted to the food, but menus tend to be short, with an emphasis on local specialities such as pasta, grilled meat or fish, and often served at shared tables. Ideal for a cheap lunch, osterie (the plural in Italian) also cater for after work and evening refreshment.

Osterie vary greatly in practice: some only serve drinks and clients are allowed to bring in their own food; some have retained a predominantly male clientele whilst others have reached out to students and young professionals. Some provide music and other entertainment. Similar to osterie are bottiglierie, where you can take a bottle or flask to be re-filled from a barrel, and enoteche which generally pride themselves on the range and quality of their wine. In Emilia-Romagna are located two of the oldest italian osterie: the "Osteria del Sole" in Bologna and "Osteria al Brindisi" in Ravenna, both established in the mid 15th century.

Source:  Wikipedia.com

Definition: Kohlrabi

I was reading one of my fashion e-mails I receive last week, and they did a feature on kohlrabi, saying that it's the next big thing.

What is kohlrabi?

According to wikipedia.com, kohlrabi (German turnip) is a perennial vegetable, and is a low, stout cultivar of cabbage. Kohlrabi can be eaten raw as well as cooked.

The taste and texture of kohlrabi are similar to those of a broccoli stem or cabbage heart, but milder and sweeter, with a higher ratio of flesh to skin. The young stem in particular can be as crisp and juicy as an apple, although much less sweet.

In doing some research online, I may be behind the times!  There seems to have been a proliferation of articles on kohlrabi last year around this time.  In any case, I'll let you know if we find the vegetable and cook some up. . .

Definition: Soccarat

I learned a new word yesterday when making paella. 

Soccarat is a layer of crusty browned rice that forms on the bottom of the pan (which is a traditional part of paella).  I had no idea there was a word for it!

Have a wonderful Memorial Day!

Definition: Herbes de Provence

This week's word is:  Herbes de Provence

I've always wondered. . . what herbs make up Herbes de Provence?

According to Wikipedia.com:
Formerly simply a descriptive term referring to herbs typical of Provence, in the 1970s, commercial blends started to be sold under this name. These mixtures typically contain savory, fennel, basil, thyme, and lavender leaves and other herbs, though lavender was not used in traditional southern French cooking.

Herbes de Provence are used to flavour grilled foods such as fish and meat, as well as vegetable stews. The mixture can be added to foods before or during cooking or mixed with cooking oil prior to cooking so as to infuse the flavour into the cooked food. They are rarely added after cooking is complete.

There are quite a few different recipes for making your own herb mixture that you can find online.

I was just curious to see what herbs some pre-packaged Herbes de Provence contain:

• McCormick's:  rosemary, marjoram, thyme and savory
• Dean & DeLuca's:  rosemary, marjoram, thyme, savory, basil, fennel and lavender

Definition: Gastrique

Thanks to blog contributor FoodFiend for suggesting this week's word of the week:  gastrique

A gastrique is a sauce made by deglazing caramelized sugar with vinegar and then reducing. With its sweet-tart flavor, a gastrique is often used as a fruit sauce for meats like duck and venison.

Source:  BonAppetit.com

Definition: Boulevardier

This week's definition is boulevardier.

There's a new French restaurant in Dallas called Boulevardier.  I assumed that the name of the restaurant referenced a boulevard; however, as I was reading Bon Appetit Magazine's May 2013 issue, there was a reference to the drink, a Boulevardier.

Confused, I looked up the word, and it turns out that it's both a term referencing a person walking a boulevard and also a drink.

According to merriam-webster.com, the definition of boulevardier is
: a frequenter of the Parisian boulevards; broadly: man-about-town
The origin is from from the French word "boulevard."

The Boulevardier cocktail is a combination of bourbon, sweet vermouth and Campari. 

Here's a recipe from BonAppetit.com:
Combine 2 ounces bourbon, 1 ounce Campari, and 1 ounce sweet vermouth in a large mixing glass filled with ice. Stir until glass is very cold, about 1 minute. Strain into a chilled cocktail glass or coupe or a rocks glass filled with fresh ice. Garnish with a lemon twist.

Definition: Aioli

This week's culinary definition is aioli.

Aioli is a Provençal traditional sauce made of garlic, olive oil, lemon juice, and egg yolks. There are many variations, such as the addition of mustard. It is usually served at room temperature. The name comes from Provençal alh 'garlic' + òli 'oil.'

Aioli is like mayonnaise, an emulsion or a suspension of small globules of oil and oil-soluble compounds in water and water-soluble compounds. Egg yolk can be used as an emulsifier and is generally used in making aioli. However, mustard and garlic both have emulsion-producing properties and some variants omit the egg.

Generally, egg yolks, garlic and Dijon mustard (if adding this as a common variation on the basic aioli) are combined first with a whisk, then the oil and the lemon juice are added slowly with whisking to create the emulsion. The additions of the dissimilar ingredients must be slow to start and then can be faster once the initial emulsion has formed.

Source:  Wikipedia.com

Definition: Chimichurri

This week's culinary definition is chimichurri.

What exactly is it?
It's a sauce used for grilled meat and is originally from Argentina but is also used in Uruguay.

Chimichurri is made from finely chopped parsley, minced garlic, olive oil, oregano, and white or red wine vinegar. Additional flavorings such as coriander, paprika, cumin, thyme, lemon, and bay leaf may be included. In its red version, tomato and red bell pepper may also be added. It can also be used as a marinade for grilled meat.

Where did the name come from?
I think these 2 explanations are the most realistic and believable:

The Argentine gourmet Miguel Brascó claims that the word chimichurri originated when the British were captured after the British invasions of the Río de la Plata. The prisoners asked for condiment for their food mixing English, aboriginal and Spanish words. According to this story, che-mi-curry stands for "che mi salsa" (a rough translation is hey give me condiment) or "give me curry". The word then corrupted to chimichurri.

Another theory for the name of the sauce comes from the Basque settlers that arrived in Argentina as early as the 19th century. According to this theory, the name of the sauce comes from the Basque term tximitxurri, loosely translated as "a mixture of several things in no particular order."

Source:  wikipedia.com

Definition: Duxelles

What is duxelle or duxelles (pronounced duck-SELL)?  

Duxelles is a finely chopped (minced) mixture of mushrooms or mushroom stems, onions, shallots and herbs sautéed in butter, and reduced to a paste (sometimes cream is used, as well). It is a basic preparation used in stuffings and sauces (notably, beef Wellington) or as a garnish. Duxelles can also be filled into a pocket of raw pastry and baked as a savory tart.

Duxelles is said to have been created by the 17th-century French chef François Pierre La Varenne (1615–1678) and to have been named after his employer, Nicolas Chalon du Blé, marquis d'Uxelles, maréchal de France.

Try Gordon Ramsay's Beef Wellington recipe which calls for making a duxelles (or mushroom paste).

Source: Wikipedia.com

Definition: Banger sausage

On Saturday, I went to Bowl & Barrel with some friends and ordered the Scotch Egg that was on their menu. 

Scotch Egg description:
our banger sausage around a farm egg, fried crispy on a bed of salad greens

The server said it was good and that they take a lot of time to make it right; I was curious about it since I'd seen a contestant on MasterChef make the dish. It was delish (though, a little salty) and didn't need the sweet BBQ-like sauce that came on the side.

I'd heard of bangers before but wondered. . .  what exactly is banger sausage?  Is it a specific type of sausage?

According to Wikipedia:
Although it is sometimes stated that the term "bangers" has its origins in World War II, the term was
actually in use at least as far back as 1919.  The term "bangers" is attributed to the fact that sausages, particularly the kind made during World War II under rationing, were made with water so they were more likely to explode under high heat if not cooked carefully; modern sausages do not have this attribute.

Definition: Nicoise Salad

It's Monday definition day!

The first time I ordered a Nicoise salad, I was in college.  I don't remember how I pronounced it, and even today, I often stop myself before pronouncing it -- second-guessing myself.  The correct pronunciation is 'ni-swaz' (it's French).

The salad includes tomatoes, green beans, tuna and anchovies and is often accompanied with hard-boiled eggs and olives.  Traditionally, it included raw red peppers, shallots and artichoke hearts, new potatoes or other cooked vegetables.

Here is a recipe offered by Chef Alice Waters of Chez Panisse.

Definition: Clafoutis

Photo from wikipedia.com

Clafoutis is a dessert from the Limousin region of France, consisting of black cherries arranged in a buttered dish and covered with fairly thick pancake batter.  It is served lukewarm, dusted with sugar. Aas a rule, the cherries are not pitted but simply washed and stalked/stemmed since the kernals add their flavor to the batter during cooking.

The Academie francais, who had defined clafoutis as a "sort of fruit flan," was faced with protests from the Limoges and changed their definition to "cake with black cherries."  Nevertheless, there are numerous variations using red cherries or other fruits.  The word comes from the provincial dialect word clafir (to fill).

Source:  Larousse Gastronomique

Here is Julia Child's recipe on epicurious.com  (her recipe calls for pitted cherries)